How do you pick which wave to go for?

Watch where the shoulder is. If the whole wall stands up at once it's closing out — let it go. You want the peak with an open face to one side of it.

Sit on the beach and count for ten minutes before you paddle out. Where are the good ones breaking? How many in a set? You'll catch more waves by watching than by paddling.

Also: commit. Two more paddle strokes than feels necessary. Ninety percent of 'missed' waves are under-paddled.